A 5 5mm sewn rope sling made with technora aramid core and nylon sheath.
Auto block on double rope rappel.
An auto block is a rappel backup or a third hand meaning if you get knocked unconscious or lose control of the rope it will tighten up and keep you from plummeting downward.
It needs to be short enough so it can t get caught in the belay device which would render it useless.
It locks under load and unlike all other friction knots it releases while still under load.
One of the most common mistakes is the failure to capture both strands of a double rope rappel in the rappel device.
The knot is the best back up simply because it does two jobs exceedingly well.
In a multi pitch rappel setting this decreases the likelihood of ropes getting stuck and provides the security of a closed system.
Obsession climbing 20 250 views.
Set it up correctly.
How to use an auto block to backup your rappel.
The autoblock knot an easy to tie friction knot or hitch that is tied around a climbing rope with a thin length of cord is used as a safety back up knot when you re rappelling.
Wyatt hansen 15 201 views.
Auto block resistance belaying a second high friction in auto block mode plagued all the devices capable of double rope rappels especially the smart alpine.
Use the lower hand to feed the rope up through the belay device while the top hand moves the auto block down the rope so it doesn t tighten.
Setting up rappel device for double rope rappel duration.
Top belaying with the device is called guide or reverso mode and offers an auto blocking advantage on the rope if the climber were to fall.
French prusik knot auto block rappel backup duration.
For those just starting with any type of rock climbing including rappelling remember the following basics.
At the bottom or the next anchor call off rappel to your belayer.
It is unique in that it is a fully certified 22kn sling that can be used anywhere a normal sling is used.
The loop is used when setting up the belay device at an anchor so that the belayer can top belay a second.
Presenter darrell weston videographer matt blecharz.
Basics to keep in mind.
